Is the Via dell’Amore Open? Well, “it’s Complicated”

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The state to date “is complicated”, as with so many paths of love. However, the light at the end of the tunnel seems to be visible.

The signs announcing its presence could be misleading, leaving hope that La Via dell’Amore – the Route of Love, among the most beautiful paths in the world, is once again open to passage, while unfortunately it is not yet so.

However, it will be restored in twenty-eight months, in 2023.
This is a very expensive operation, which will cost 12 million euros financed by regional funds and by the Ministry of Environment Mibac.

But you know: for love, you don’t mind the expense, and the romantic journey is really more than an institution, both for the inhabitants of the two villages united by the short and panoramic passage, and for visitors in search of the great beauty and romanticism granted by its name.
With the financing, it will be possible to secure the entire Via dell’Amore, also made accessible to the disabled, and the lengthening of the artificial tunnel where the collapse occurred, with the restoration of the side walls.

With breathtaking views, a unique setting of cliffs and rocks overlooking the sea, short tunnels and enlargements to enjoy moments of peace, the Via dell’Amore was built almost by accident.

According to tradition, the Via dell’Amore was built during the construction of the Cinque Terre railway, serving as a powder magazine for the explosive material needed for the works. To connect the two construction sites of the Riomaggiore and Manarola stations to the depot, two small paths carved into the rock were needed. After completing the railway route, the people of the two villages finally had the chance to rejoin: up until then, in fact, they had been very close, yet far away, because the mountains between the two villages had always made any kind of communication very difficult.

The two paths were expanded and connected to build what, for the locals, was “the new road”. The works were not easy, especially in the spots where the rock was straight and smooth, but eventually the two roads were joined, immediately opening the eyes to the wonder.

La Via dell’Amore, Ph. Gazzetta della Spezia


If a path of love closes, many others open up … 3 ideas for a romantic walk in the area.

While waiting for the Via dell’Amore to open up again, you can certainly walk other romantic routes in the Cinque Terre.
Couples in search of quiet and evocative moments, perhaps for a special occasion, can find numerous pedestrian paths in the Cinque Terre area to enjoy intimate moments together.
Below, 3 ideas for easy walks in the Cinque Terre area and Golfo dei Poeti, which, like the Via dell’Amore, do not require much training and will leave an indelible memory in the hearts of lovers.


1 – The Framura Walk, 800 meters between sea and magic

The Framura promenade temporarily replaces the Via dell’Amore

2 – The Belvedere of Montemarcello, the most incredible view of the Gulf of the Poets

Belvedere in Montemarcello

There are many places to appreciate the magnificence of the Golfo dei Poeti, which already evokes romance and beauty in its name. One of the best and scenic spots is certainly at the end of the short walk from the characteristic village of Montemarcello, high above the Caprione hill, in the eastern part of the Gulf.

The village itself offers enchanting views of the sea, surrounded by typical colorful houses, picturesque squares and a cheerful atmosphere. From the main square of the village you can easily reach the starting point of a short and quiet brick road, which initially runs through the gardens of some houses, surrounded by plants and the aromas of agave, myrtle, wisteria and jasmine. Then the walk enters olive groves and Aleppo pines to finally open up with a deep breath to one of the most evocative views of the Mediterranean, we dare to say: the Belvedere of Montemarcello.

3 – For the most sporty couples who love trekking: from the Muzzerone refuge to Portovenere

The view between Campiglia and Portovenere, ph. M. Di Francesco

Portovenere cannot be described, it must be seen in person. Beauty and romance are inspired by the countless views offered by the profile of the fishing village, its church of San Pietro and its islands. Portovenere is set in a unique mix of high mountains and coastline. The short trek we recommend is the last stretch of a longer path, which connects Riomaggiore and Portovenere in a more challenging but beautiful walk.

La vista di Portovenere aperta dalla passeggiata dal Muzzerone

You can reach the Muzzerone refuge by car, located near the shining white rock wall overlooking the sea. The refuge is a small oasis of beauty that offers shade and refreshments for trekking lovers. Sitting at the tables of the “Rifugio”, the view of the castle of Portovenere and the church of San Pietro, as well as on the islands of Palmaria and Tino, is perfect. And when you begin the walk towards Portovenere, step by step you slowly embrace the poetry offered by the Golfo dei Poeti, the Grotta di Byron and the coast of the Cinque Terre.

Only problem, the way back: get ready for a steep return to the car.

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